The Core Score

Epic fail for being able to put some words on paper for this season on the water. Not only have I been fairly consumed playing a new role in life, but these past 3 months weren’t much to brag about on the east coast. Don’t get me wrong, if you played your cards right there were some amazing times to paddle out, but for me it was more about making the most of each one. My short, stubbly recap of this surf season (thus far):

Ice cream headaches. Christened a new suit. Ate at the salad bowl. Dodged the cape sharks. Went over the lip at The Wall. Got stoked on Hurricane Leslie. Dropped down to a 6’0”, just what the Doc ordered. Witnessed to the epicenter of Maine surf. Lunch break surf sesh, check. Dusk patrol. Dawn patrol. Rooster tails in Long Beach. Got reunited with Drakes. A lost day in long board city. Flat tire. 100+ surfer lineups. Still holding out for more.

As an ode to surfing magazine, here’s my rendition of life’s Core Score:

         +                            -

  • Having a baby                                        Acting like a baby
  • Straight razor shaving                          Manscaped stubble
  • Flexibility                                                  Warmth
  • Bluebird days                                          “Don’t bro me”
  • Catching up                                            Letting someone down
  • Giving something away                        Possessions owning you
  • Pacifico                                                     Scotch
  • 3-piece suits                                           Cuff-links
  • Living for today                                      Living in the past
  • Board meetings                                     On-boarding

Stay awesome, love life and play nice.

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