“Dude, you think I can walk on this water?”
Location: Seaweed island
First wave: 6:19 am
Air temp: 70 degrees
Conditions: 3ft chop
This morning was gnarly as hell to say the least. To start, 6:10 am in late September is not dawn… it’s dark. Somehow over the past couple of sessions “Dawn Patrol” has slowly evolved into “Surfing at night”. The ocean is beautiful at sunrise, but the feeling of vulnerability increases 10-fold in the darkness, especially after word that a 300lb Blue Shark washed up on the shore of my local break last week. I quickly push that thought out of my mind as I hit the water.
Aside from the ESE onshore winds creating choppy-ass waves, the sizes
This is beyond Dawn Patrol
weren’t bad. Unpredictable at best, especially ones that look nice coming at you then turn to mush a moment later. It’s funny how the moment you catch that first left-breaking wave that you ride out to oceanic enlightenment that suddenly this becomes “the best day ever”.
PS – the seaweed is getting atrocious on Nahant. I think I may move on to (less) greener pastures until the winter kills it off. At points it was so soupy and resembling the Gulf Coast after BP had its way that you feel like you just might simply be able to walk onto the next breaking wave.
Keeping the stoke alive... 